Safari

So, arriving in the city centre of Nairobi we walked to a couple of hotels to check them out. Naturally we were trailed by touts and 'helpers', but that's the same travelling everywhere, so we just pretty much ignored them, but in a nice way of course.

We ended up taking the first place we checked, which was recommended by the Lonely Planet (the Terminal Hotel), but the whole point of not booking somewhere in advance is that you can never trust someone else's opinion, not even the Lonely Planet (LP) authors. I like the LP and have always used it, but it's only a guide and can't be taken as gospel. It's often out of date, with places closed down or just really run-down, but it gives you a decent reference point from which you can start.

The only time I've booked ahead (apart from package holidays - yuk!) was on the Vietnam trip, and each time it was a disappointment. Even though I'd done extensive research and picked from amongst the best 5-star hotels, when we actually got to them they were soulless, characterless business hotels that could have been in any major city in the world - London, Paris or New York. When I actually walked around the streets I'd stumble across a gorgeous, genuine Vietnamese hotel, brimming with character and a tenth of the price, and I'd curse my naivety in having pandered to the Machine by booking ahead 'just in case we can't get anything!'.

So having checked-in, we strolled about the town. It's not the prettiest place, but not bad either. Not too many tourist sights to see, the best of them apparently is the National Museum, but it's currently closed for renovations. By the late afternoon we decided to call into one of the safari companies mentioned in the guidebook to get a feel for safari options and prices (the amount of forward planning for this trip really was minimal, and neither of us had much of a clue).

But we (i.e. me) ended up haggling like an age-old pro (once you've got it, you never lose it), and we ended up booking a four day safari for $310 each. It was three days in the Masai Mara reserve (apparently the best one in Kenya, and so I assume the world) and one day at Lake Nakuru. We could have left the very next day, but decided to wait a day and relax in Nairobi instead (there were less people on the trip we did too (5 as opposed to 7), which I knew would mean more room, and therefore comfort, in the safari vehicle).

The safari was brilliant I have to say. I won't bore you with the details, it was a safari and we saw lots and lots of critters, and managed four of the big five, only missing the leopard (but seeing a cheetah, which isn't one of the five). But I had a nice moment in the middle of it all, a strange but not unfamiliar realisation - that I've always known I'd do a safari. I don't mean that I always 'wanted to do' a safari, I've always known I would do a safari. And here I was, finally doing it. I've always had a strong draw to animals (and to nature and the outdoors in general I think, which is why cycling is such a passion for me), but the goal of doing a real African safari has been a dream since childhood. And as with all goals you achieve in life (this whole trip being another one for me), there's an extra special satisfaction when you can sit back, relax and enjoy the slow unfolding of that dream.

The last day of the trip was at a lake famous for its flamingos. At the height of their season they reckon there are 1.2 million of them on the shores of this one lake, but even for us the tens of thousands we saw were stunning. You can get out of the safari van and walk amongst them too, which was great. The lake has a stunning lookout point up a big hill too, where I could easily have spent the entire day just sitting and gazing down at the park and lake, and the flamingos taking off and landing in big groups. But the fact that we couldn't just stay there all day really summed up my only problem with the whole safari thing - the fact that you are on a tour, and it has to be 'packaged'. We all had to get back in our van and drive off to the next place on the itinerary, but that's a small quibble I suppose, and these parks really do have to be managed (although you can hire a car and do them yourself I think, so maybe when I come back in a few years time (with the kiddies!) I'll try that approach). (Ok, the other quibble would have to be the feeling that the animals are only really semi-wild, 'cos they're so familiar with humans and their safari vans, and the reserves are delimited with fences. For example, the lions routinely lie against the wheels of the van to get some shade, and although it's brilliant for photos opportunities, it takes something away from the wilderness vibe somewhat. The guidebook does recommend a walking safari as a nice alternative to the usual vehicle ones, so maybe I'll try that somewhere else to see.)

During the safari we met up with two cool Dutch girls, both of whom, conveniently, were named Maaike. They were a bit longer in the country (they were getting work experience as midwives in the Kenyan town of Eldoret) and were more clued up than us - they realised that our return trip to Nairobi took us past another lake (Naivasha) and so had arranged with the tour company to be dropped off there rather than continuing all the way back to the city. So we decided to do the same, which I suppose is just one of the great perks of truly independent travel...