Oudtshoorn

Oudtshoorn is another small town, this time inland away from the coast. But it's not mountains that draw you away from the sea, but ostriches. This town used to be the world capital for ostrich farming - maybe it still is, but these days the industry is in serious decline. Apparently just two years ago the town lost the contract to supply the Rio festival with ostrich feathers, the Chinese having captured that market with cheaper synthetic feathers. Also, the worlds fashion houses no longer covet real ostrich feathers, so apparently many of the farms in the region are in danger. There is a market for the meat of course, but because it's so lean (a good thing from a health point of view), it means the meat doesn't have much flavour of it's own, and so is always served with a sauce or two.

I learned all this from the cool guy (whose name I can't remember), that ran the Backpackers Paradise place we stayed in. Yet again a lovely, clean, airy place with lovely rooms and a brilliant pool. We had a couple of nice relaxed evenings at the bar with the owner and other backpackers, and he even gave me a CD when we left (a chilled out Dorfmeister CD that became the soundtrack for the rest of our South African journey).

The place also rented out bikes, and so we decided to do an organised trip where they drive you to the top of a nearby mountain and you cycle all the way back to the backpackers. Of course I consider getting a lift up a mountain as downright cheating, which it is of course, but on this occasion I relented. The weather wasn't great unfortunately, but it was still a good ride, and the rain kept off for the most part. Coming back into the town we stopped off at a well-known tea garden place and had some tea and cake, while I went for a swim in their big pool (the weather having cleared up by then). After dropping Sarah back at the backpackers, I took off again on the bike and did some off-roading at the northern end of the town (and climbed most of the way up a huge concrete reservoir in what seemed like very high winds).

So of course we also had to do the obligatory ostrich farm tour, but it was actually really interesting and the highlight of course was getting to ride an actual ostrich. But we were shown around quite a lot, standing on eggs (they're very strong), seeing incubation chambers, explaining why the feathers make such good dusters (anti-static properties), etc.

But when it came to riding an ostrich, I was quite lucky. On our tour of about 15 people, only 4 were allowed to ride an ostrich and the choice started at the opposite end of the line to me. By the time the wavier sheet came to Sarah only two other people had requested a ride, meaning Sarah and me were the last two - phew! I would have been seriously peeved if I hadn't gotten a go.

So, the first person up was a middle aged woman who got the most almightyful fright when her ostrich took off (the handlers cover the bird's head with a sock, you climb on, they take the sock off, and off the ostrich goes with the handlers running either side of it). Anyway the poor 'auld dear was literally terrified, whilst I was nearly in tears laughing at her - I just couldn't help it, her face was an absolute picture. And besides it didn't look in the slightest bit dangerous or scary, I really don't know why she reacted the way she did. The next person up was far more relaxed, and it was obvious he really enjoyed his little jaunt. Next was Sarah, and although she was a little nervous she had no problem at all, and again really enjoyed it. So I was really looking forward to my turn and up I got. It was absolutely brilliant I have to say, one of the fun-ist things I've ever done, but way, way too short. I think I was close to the weight limit (75kg I think), for the poor birds so the handlers cut my ride quite short. I'm sure many animal lovers might think riding an ostrich is unfair to the bird, and to be honest I kinda agree (and some the poor critters have bald patches where people seem to have pulled the feathers out when holding on too tight), but our guide claimed it did them no harm and that they didn't seem to mind - so I don't know really, but it certainly was great fun.

The other major attraction is the Cango Caves, a huge cave complex not too far from the town. We arrived there early in the morning and had the choice of the 'Adventure Tour' or the 'Standard Tour' - yeah, right. So off we went, and it certainly is an impressive complex, as is the whole visitor centre itself I have to say. Of course our guide repeatedly hypes up the 'danger' and 'difficulty' of the tour we're on, but when it comes down to it it's the little 10 year old and his little sister who lead the way. But in fact the most difficult part is actually really easy for kiddies, as it involves having to wiggle your way up a natural chimney-type rock formation, and their small size made it easy for them. It was good though, getting to clamber along narrow tunnels and stuff - I'd definitely recommend it. And apparently earlier in the year a tour group was held up for 10 hours after some fat idiot American woman got stuck in one of the tunnels - funny (and sad!) but true, and our guide was still having a good laugh at it (BBC news story is here).

Oudtshoorn also has some lovely restaurants and Jemima's came highly recommended, and we had a great meal here on our last night. Next it was back to the coast, and after a quick look-see, a spot of lunch and a swim (for me anyway) in Mossel's bay it was onwards to Hermanus, famous for it's whale watching opportunities.